Proven Ingredients / Anti-ageing / Skin care Routines / Skincare Tips

What Is The Difference Between An Emollient, Humectant, And Occlusive?

Isn't a moisturiser... Just a moisturiser? Well, it turns out it isn't. Let's dive straight in and see exactly what the difference is between them and which one our skin types need...

moisturiser

Everybody needs a moisturiser, even oily skin types.

It's a must-have in everyone's skincare routine but to optimise your skincare journey, it's essential to know and learn about the 3 main hydrators: emollient, humectant, and occlusive, and how exactly they benefit our individual skin.

Each one is not created equal but instead, has a different purpose and can work wonders in upping the hydration factor within your routine.

serum

What Are Humectants?

Humectants work by pulling water molecules into the skin like a magnet. Hyaluronic acid is the most well-known humectant but types of humectants include glycerin, aloe vera gel, and urea. These water-loving ingredients pull water from the deeper layers of the skin up to the skin's surface for optimal hydration to keep the skin moisturized.

Humectant moisturisers tend to be very lightweight, watery, and absorb quickly. They layer easily alongside a humectant moisturiser or emollients and work well for acne-prone skin or during the warmer months when you require light consistencies.

You Need A Humectant If...

You have an oily, combination skin type or are dehydrated. Common dehydration signs include tightness in the skin (especially after cleansing), itchy skin, and fine lines that come and go rather than being permanently visible.

cream

What Are Emollients?

The next step up from a humectant; emollients are slightly richer and thicker in texture. Meaning soother or softener, emollients effectively soften a dry, rough, and flakey skin barrier. Emollient ingredients normally include cocoa butter, shea butter, colloidal oatmeal, squalene, and triglycerides (lipids).

An emollient will help to restore the skin’s natural lipid barrier in order to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Emollients are also great for soothing eczema-prone skin as the skin barrier becomes stronger with every application.

Emollients are usually found in the form of creams, lotions, ointments, or balms. Most skin types will need and use an emollient.

You Need An Emollient If...

You have skin! Most skin types require an emollient. You definitely need an emollient if you have dry skin or aging skin.

oil

What Are Occlusives?

You can use occlusives on the skin and hair. They have a heavy consistency to create a barrier over the skin to retain moisture levels, keep the skin hydrated, and block out external irritants. They are usually the very final step of a skincare routine and are mainly used at night. Many emollients also have occlusive properties, such as petrolatum, lanolin, and mineral oil.

Waxes, silicone, oils, fatty acids, and dimethicone are a few of the other most common ingredients. Occlusives are usually purchased as waxes or oils. Due to their thick, heavy consistency, occlusive moisturisers are best reserved for severely dry or damaged skin in need of some TLC.

Occlusives can cause havoc for acne-prone skin types. If you have acne-prone skin and need to use an occlusive, it’s important to check that the moisturising agent is non-comedogenic, so you don’t end up with clogged pores and further breakouts.

You Need An Occlusive If...

You have very dry skin, a damaged skin barrier, or an inflammatory skin disorder like eczema, psoriasis, or dermatitis.

moisturiser

Conclusion

  • Humectants = hydrate and draw moisture into the skin

  • Emollients = restore the skin barrier to soften the skin's surface

  • Occlusives = help seal in moisture to prevent moisture loss

During the course of the year and the different seasons, your skin conditions and issues, even your skin type, can change dramatically. You may need to include one, two, or all three types of moisturisers in your bathroom cabinet. We recommend tracking down your favourite humectant, emollient, and occlusive — so you are completely prepared for whatever the weather and your skin may throw at you.

If you would like any further advice regarding skincare or moisturisers then feel free to ask us! You can shop our wide range of skincare products and moisturisers via Dermacare Direct with free tracked delivery via Royal Mail. We can help with our expert advice and top tips making your online shopping stress-free. You can contact us by live chat, email via [email protected], or pick up the phone now and call us on phone number 0116 251 4848 to speak directly with a friendly advisor.

 

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Andrea Patel Dermatology Nurse Practitioner & Director Author
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